The Designers' Showcase
The Contemporary Designer Showcase was conceived by the founders, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah, and is curated by jewellery historian, journalist and author, Vivienne Becker, for Vivarium, a new, authoritative jewellery platform that brings jewels and their stories, both past and present, to life.
The Contemporary Designer Showcase will highlight the creativity and originality that keeps the jewellery world alive, dynamic and continually evolving. The Showcase will have its own specially designed conceptual space at the heart of the exhibition, emphasising the individuality of each designer and creative vision.
“It is important for us to include a modern designer showcase in this new venture, to show emerging talent and explain how the new generation of designers is evolving. We would like GemGenève to become not only a vibrant trading place, but also an educational experience, a place where, each year, people come to discover new talents, new stories and undiscovered treasures.” - IDA FAERBER
Belmacz by Julia Muggenburg
This German-born, London-based artist who studied at London’s St Martin’s School of Art, turned to jewellery as a powerful vehicle for self-expression, launching her first collection in 2000. She is an archindividualist, avant-garde and original in her approach to fashion, art, design, and in her jewellery she courageously challenges clichés, conventions and preconceptions whilst honouring the long heritage and history of the jewels. Her powerful, graphic style is influenced by art, tribal jewellery, by the profound
meanings of jewellery in different cultures and civilisations around the world. Today, she also challenges the jewellery-puchasing experience, selling both jewellery and the work of contemporary artists in her London gallery.
Swiss born, London based Sheibani grew up immersed in the art world, surrounded by art and the celebrated artists represented by her art-dealer father. Yet she doesn’t approach the jewel as an artwork but as pure design, working with line, form, colour, material and texture, integrating all into the overall concept. She takes jewellery into entirely new territory with unusual, unexpected themes, ranging from cakes and ice-creams through cacti and the human eye.
This young designer-jeweller is acknowledged as a major emerging talent. He studied at HEAD, the prestigious school of art and design, in Geneva, and then worked with leading Parisian jewellery houses before starting out on his own just a few years ago. Tarpin draws his main inspiration from nature, working in a poetic, naturalistic, sculptural style, focusing on floral forms, which he interprets with a certain world-weary sensuality, experimenting with surface treatments of metals to achieve unusual colours and texture. Last December, Christie’s sold a pair of earrings, depicting Geranium leaves, organic, romantic, in deep green tinted aluminium, edged with diamonds.
Working from his studio in Rome, Salini brings a powerful conceptual modernism to High Jewellery. His jewels are characterised by pure form and architectural volumes, and contrasts of precious and humble materials, horizontal and vertical, radiant and matt textures, as he combines gemstones with materials such as carbon fibre, leather, ebony, bronze and copper. Inspired by modern art, 1920s modernism and by utilitarian objects, with a 70s vibe, he balances thrilling newness with chords of familiarity to build what he calls an “entirely new language for precious jewellery.”
This London-based British designer goldsmith, who trained at London’s prestigious Central St Martin’s Art School, known for her edgy interpretation of conventional concepts of preciousness, has always been fascinated by androgyny, and by the gender fluidity that is so important in today’s world. She creates shapes and forms that are uncompromising, powerful, linear, provocative, but always with a sculptural element, and underpinned with an imaginative narrative. She is interested in the contradictions within the role and meaning of the jewel, particularly between ownership “Possession” that has so often defined the jewels and freedom of expression, and between constraint and freedom in the physical attributes of the jewel.
A skilled artisan herself, Morgenthaler runs an exclusive atelier in Geneva, known for the most refined craftsmanship. A few years ago, she decided to launch her own collection, using her knowledge and expertise to push boundaries of design and technique, creating light, three dimensional structures, especially earrings, of exquisite refinement and sophistication, exploring movement and light. These are often inspired by architectural details, and always set with antique natural pearls and gemstones of soft, subtle, indefinable colours.
In Moscow, the young design duo Eugene Glagolev and Tima Ibragimov translate Russia’s jewelled past into resolutely contemporary yet deeply emotive jewels. Inspired and informed by antique jewellery, they search out early Russian gems, stones with a story, including demantoid garnets and regal Siberian amethysts, and weave complex visual narratives around them. They began by designing jewels for Russian brands while developing their own creations and in the past five years their individualist style fusing past and present has begun to attract a circle of loyal private clients.
Sean Gilson is an American goldsmith and jeweller, who hand-crafts every piece himself in his atelier in Connecticut and workshop in New York City. Having studied fine art before training as a goldsmith with renowned European and American metalsmiths, Gilson takes a very fresh, graphic approach to shape, form and material – working particularly with gold, which he forges into powerful, primal, geometric shapes, with pearls, combining natural, Akoya, South Sea and baroque pearls, using their shape and
lustre to build structure and texture, renewing their appeal, imbuing them with a youthful zest, and with sustainable coral, exploring its natural, organic forms, which he integrates into jewels that tell the story of coral’s underwater origins.
Tenzo, by Alexander Tenzo
Based in St Petersburg, this indefatigable Russian gem-hunter and jeweller is a champion of Russian jewelled arts, a renovator and moderniser of age-old skills and traditions. He scours the world for rare and intriguing stones, like Alexandrites and cat’s eye cabochons, and searches worldwide too for artisans who can achieve the refinement of technique and craftsmanship he envisages for his jewellery creations. Tenzo is known for reinvigorating the Russian art of stone carving, so inextricably linked to Faberge, but which is deeply rooted in Russian culture, in the immense resources of gems and minerals in the Ural mountains. Alongside his jewels, including his series of cameos and intaglios, he creates objects, meticulously, imaginatively carved from gems, hardstones and minerals.
The Style of Jolie Collection
Robert Procop joined forces with actor and director Angelina Jolie to create a collection of jewellery the proceeds of which would benefit the charity co-founded by Ms Jolie, The Education Partnership for Children of Conflict. The charity strives to build schools and provide education for children in areas of devastating conflicts and high refugee concentrations. Both pledged to donate 100% of the profits to the charity.