From the mid-20th century onwards, Bulgari played a pivotal role in reviving the cabochon cut, making it a signature element of the Maison. Moving away from traditional French designs prioritising faceted gemstones and intricate settings, Bulgari embraced bold colours, large cabochon cuts, and yellow gold. This shift marked the emergence of the “Italian school of jewellery,” characterised by harmonious colour combinations, volume, and a modern aesthetic.
Gislain Aucremanne highlighted several iconic Bulgari pieces featuring cabochon-cut gemstones. One notable example is the Serpenti necklace from 1969, which incorporates a cabochon sapphire set into the head of a snake—a design echoing the etymology of “cabochon” and symbolising protection and wisdom. Another is a bracelet from 1954, adorned with cabochon sapphires and “bubbles” of rubies, emphasising volume and the bold use of colour.
Bulgari’s approach was revolutionary in its daring combinations of precious stones with cabochon cuts. The Maison often used cabochon rubies, sapphires, and emeralds—gemstones traditionally reserved for faceting—in their cabochon form to emphasise colour and volume. This highlighted the gemstones’ natural beauty and introduced a new level of sophistication and modernity to jewellery design.
Using cabochons allowed Bulgari to create pieces with a strong architectural presence, reflecting the influence of Rome’s history and architecture. The focus on bold, unrestrained colour combinations and the interplay of different shapes and sizes became hallmarks of Bulgari’s style.
While the classic cabochon is an oval or round dome with a flat base, modern lapidaries and designers have expanded its forms to include various shapes and innovations:
Sugarloaf Cabochon: This cut features a high dome with four symmetrical sides tapering to a point resembling a pyramid. It combines the smoothness of a cabochon with subtle facets, enhancing depth and colour. Iconic pieces like Elizabeth Taylor’s 65-carat Burmese sapphire pendant showcase this cut’s elegance.
Freeform Cabochons are irregular shapes tailored to the gemstone’s natural contours, allowing for unique artistic expressions and maximum material preservation.
Tubular and Triangular Cabochons: used in contemporary designs to create dynamic and bold pieces, offering designers a wider palette of shapes to enhance creativity.
The cabochon cut enables jewellers to experiment with artistic effects, adding a playful and joyful dimension to their designs. By setting various colours and sizes of cabochons, jewellers can create mosaic-like patterns reminiscent of stained-glass windows. This approach allows for innovative use of light and colour, contributing to pieces that are both visually striking and rich in character.
An example discussed by Aucremanne and Chabrol is a necklace featuring cabochon-cut citrines with an orangish hue reminiscent of Roman sunsets. The piece demonstrates how cabochons can capture the essence of natural phenomena, translating them into wearable art.
Indian jewellery has long celebrated the use of cabochons, especially in Mughal designs that feature rich colours and elaborate craftsmanship. The influence of Indian aesthetics introduced daring colour combinations and the use of cabochons in European jewellery.
Paolo Bulgari himself acknowledged the inspiration drawn from India, stating, “India has given us a lot; all the colours of its arts and architecture are part of our inspiration. India opened many doors to European jewellery because the Indians were the first to meet colours in a daring way.”
This influence is evident in Bulgari’s designs, such as a pair of earrings from 1965 that mirror motifs found in traditional Indian turban ornaments called “sarpech”. These pieces blend Eastern and Western design elements, incorporating cabochon-cut emeralds, rubies, and sapphires to create harmonious and vibrant jewellery.
The cabochon’s resurgence was also propelled by revivalist movements that looked to the past for inspiration. For example, the Castellani family in 19th-century Rome created jewellery inspired by archaeological finds, including the use of cabochon-cut gemstones. Their work reflected a respect for ancient techniques and aesthetics, bridging the gap between historical authenticity and contemporary design.
The cabochon cut embodies a harmonious blend of historical tradition, technical craftsmanship, and artistic expression. From its ancient origins to modern interpretations, the cabochon continues to captivate with its simplicity and elegance. Cabochons offer designers a unique canvas and admirers a timeless allure by emphasising colour and form over brilliance and sparkle.
As Gislain Aucremanne and Marie Chabrol highlighted, the cabochon remains integral to the identity of maisons like Bulgari, symbolising a commitment to artistry and innovation. Whether showcased in historical pieces or contemporary creations, the cabochon cut stands as a testament to enduring beauty and the skilled artisans who bring gemstones to life.
In a world where jewellery trends constantly evolve, the cabochon endures, inviting us to appreciate gemstones’ pure, unadulterated beauty. Its ability to transcend time and cultures underscores its significance in the art of gem cutting and jewellery design—a true celebration of art and craftsmanship.
Gislain Aucremanne (Bulgari Heritage Curator Director)
Marie Chabrol (Gemmologist & Journalist)
Comment interpréter les inclusions ? Que nous apprennent-elles sur les gemmes ? Quelle valeur ajoutée peuvent-elles apporter à une pierre ? Ils enseignent la gemmologie, vendent et achètent des pierres [...]
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