Flames of Opal Essence

A poetic and eclectic exhibition to explore at GemGenève

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Encouraging excellence at the eighth edition

 

Since ancient times, opal has been seen as the most precious of gemstones, because it includes the whole spectrum of colours present in all the others.

Mathieu Dekeukelaire, Director, GemGenève

For its eighth edition, to be held from 9 to 12 May 2024 at Palexpo Hall 1, GemGenève has come up with a new and surprising exhibition honouring that most fascinating of precious stones, opal.

Known since ancient times, this gem – and its unique iridescence – is one of the greatest miracles of geology. Dubbed “the queen of jewels” by Shakespeare, opal has gone down in jewellery history as the gemstone favoured by both Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria.

With a selection of some fifty jewels and works of art, GemGenève is offering an exhibition that’s as eclectic as it’s poetic. Flames of Opal Essence sets up a dialogue between the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art: a journey of the senses taking visitors on an aesthetic initiation into all the mysteries of iridescence. An original exhibition design by Autre Idée will introduce visitors to all the properties of this mysterious gemstone, sublimated over and again by jewellers down through the ages.

Curated by GemGenève Director Mathieu Dekeukelaire, Flames of Opal Essence was brought to life with the support of the Geneva Museum of Art History MAH and the following contributors: Piaget, A.win Siu, Chris Price Opals, Emil Weis Opals, Ernst Färber, Faerber Collection, Imagem, Kreis Jewellery, Nicolas Torroni, Paul Fisher Inc., Michel Huelin, contemporary artist, Brice Decque, photographer, Laurent Kariv, Video maker, Jynx Productions Paris and Boris Chauviré of GeoGems, holder of a PhD in mineralogy and acting in his capacity as a scientist specialising in opals.

motifs d'opales de Lightning Ridge (c) Brice Decque, Imagem
Motifs d'opales de Lightning Ridge (c) Brice Decque, Imagem

With a selection of some fifty jewels and works of art, GemGenève is offering an exhibition that’s as eclectic as it’s poetic. Flames of Opal Essence sets up a dialogue between the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art: a journey of the senses taking visitors on an aesthetic initiation into all the mysteries of iridescence.

Nadège Totah, member of the Board of Directors

 

 

A stone steeped in superstition

 

The Geneva Museum of Art and History’s collections include a number of antique items set with opals, some of which will be on display in the Flames of Opal Essence exhibition. One of the most remarkable pieces visitors will have the opportunity to admire is a medallion bracelet, probably made between 1800 and 1850, set with an opal that conceals a tiny secret compartment in which a fine lock of child’s hair is preserved.

 

 

Often shunned as a stone fraught with superstition and bad luck, opal was rarely used in jewellerybefore the nineteenth century.

Thomas Faerber, Co-founder, GemGenève


Australian black opal (Lightning Ridge), 11.86ct
Australian black opal (Lightning Ridge), 11.86ct. ©Kreis Jewellery
Gold bracelet. Champlevé enamel, opal, pearls, rubies, emeralds, gouache on ivory
Gold bracelet. Champlevé enamel, opal, pearls, rubies, emeralds, gouache on ivory, c.1800/1850 ©Geneva Museum of Art and History collection

Opals: the gemstone of choice for twentieth-century jewellery


Faerber Collection
©Faerber Collection

Exploring the interplay of light and the infinite possibilities opened up by this sensational material, the twentieth century saw the creation of pieces that were as delicate as they were astounding.

 

From US jeweller Raymond Yard to German artist and goldsmith Hermann Jünger via the creations of the Italian firm Vhernier, opals were constantly sublimated and fashioned throughout the twentieth century.


Opals owe their ascent to Art Nouveau jewellery, captivating the most talented jewelsmiths of the time.

René Lalique, Georges Fouquet and Louis Comfort Tiffany seized on its iridescence to create jewellery celebrating nature and femininity.

Ida Faerber, member of the Board of Directors


Pendant and necklace. Gold, enamel and opal,Rene Lalique Faerber Collection
Pendant and necklace. Gold, enamel and opal,Rene Lalique, c.1903/1904 ©Faerber Collection
Pair of fish brooches. Opal, rock crystal and diamonds, Vhernier
Pair of fish brooches. Opal, rock crystal and diamonds, Vhernier, c.1990 ©Faerber Collection

Opals, from jewellery to watchmaking


In the 1970s, Piaget took the daring step of introducing opal into the hallowed traditions of fine watchmaking, devising extravagant, sculptural jewelled watches. In a dazzling display of both light and the time, these uniquely styled jewel watches reveal the mystical, unfathomable beauty of each opal used. For Flames of Opal Essence, Piaget has generously agreed to display some of the most beautiful timepieces in its heritage collection: rare watches that visitors will have an opportunity to appreciate at GemGenève.


Jewellery watch. Gold, diamonds, opal dial, by Piaget, c.1971 Piaget private collection © Piaget / Fabien Cruchon
Jewellery watch. Gold, diamonds, opal dial, by Piaget, c.1971 Piaget private collection © Piaget / Fabien Cruchon
Jewellery watch. Gold, opal and diamonds, opal dial, by Piaget, c.1972 Piaget private collection © Piaget / Fabien Cruchon
Jewellery watch. Gold, opal and diamonds, opal dial, by Piaget, c.1972 Piaget private collection © Piaget / Fabien Cruchon

Opal and Contemporary Art


In the 1970s, Piaget took the daring step of introducing opal into the hallowed traditions of fine watchmaking, devising extravagant, sculptural jewelled watches. In a dazzling display of both light and the time, these uniquely styled jewel watches reveal the mystical, unfathomable beauty of each opal used. For Flames of Opal Essence, Piaget has generously agreed to display some of the most beautiful timepieces in its heritage collection: rare watches that visitors will have an opportunity to appreciate at GemGenève.


By recognising that opal is both artistic and contemporary, GemGenève is offering a new perspective on the gemstone, still relatively little-known to the general public.

Ronny Totah, Co-founder, GemGenève


Pair of white gold earrings. Fire opals, Paraiba tourmalines, orange sapphires, tsavorites, diamonds, Emil Weis Opals
Pair of white gold earrings. Fire opals, Paraiba tourmalines, orange sapphires, tsavorites, diamonds, Emil Weis Opals
A.win Siu ‘Sweet memories’, ‘Something Sweet’ lollipop series. Opal brooch,diamonds, tanzanites, tsavorites, enamel and aluminium ©A.win Siu
A.win Siu ‘Sweet memories’, ‘Something Sweet’ lollipop series. Opal brooch,diamonds, tanzanites, tsavorites, enamel and aluminium ©A.win Siu
Pearled necklace. Yellow gold, opals, mother-of-pearl, corundums, pearls and diamonds, Gilbert Albert, c.1993 ©Geneva Museum of Art and History
Pearled necklace. Yellow gold, opals, mother-of-pearl, corundums, pearls and diamonds, Gilbert Albert, c.1993 ©Geneva Museum of Art and History

“Vanitas”. Bronze, sapphire, opals and synthetic gemstones, Florie Dupont ©Geneva Museum of Art and History collection
“Vanitas”. Bronze, sapphire, opals and synthetic gemstones, Florie Dupont ©Geneva Museum of Art and History collection

Sublimating opals in Contemporary Art


Flames of Opal Essence is a cross-cutting exhibition designed to be a journey of the senses and an aestheticand above all artisticinitiation.

Mathieu Dekeukelaire, Director, GemGenève


For this eighth edition, GemGenève director Mathieu Dekeukelaire has devised a daring exhibition that blends the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art.

Drawing inspiration from the fact that observing an opal through the microscope gives the viewer the sensation of being immersed in a painting by Poliakoff, Ramade or Rollier, Mathieu Dekeukelaire has produced an unprecedented dialogue between jewels and works of art.

Flames of Opal Essence is the first ever exhibition to offer gemmology enthusiasts an opportunity to admire opal inclusions through the lens of major artworks of the twentieth century.

By including contemporary artists in the exhibition, Mathieu Dekeukelaire has developed a surprising setting in which photographs by Brice Decque sit side by side with a video installation by Swiss multidisciplinary artist Michel Huelin.

For this fifth thematic exhibition, GemGenève has thought well outside the traditional exhibition box.


Photograph of Lightning Ridge opal patterns ©Brice Decque, Imagem
Photograph of Lightning Ridge opal patterns ©Brice Decque, Imagem
Excerpt from the video created especially for the Flames of Opal Essence exhibition ©Michel Huelin _ GemGenève
Excerpt from the video created especially for the Flames of Opal Essence exhibition ©Michel Huelin _ GemGenève

DESIGNERS

Are you a Designer or an Emerging talent? Do you have interesting pieces to showcase to a wide audience?

We are seeking new talents for our next edition in May 2025. Should you be interested in exhibiting: