Les Grands Entretiens – A Life of Gems and Jewels at Bulgari

In the world of high jewellery, few names carry as much influence and reverence as Bulgari. At the heart of its creative journey is Lucia Silvestri, whose decades-long career epitomises a passion for gemstones and a commitment to pushing artistic boundaries. During the eighth edition of GemGenève, an intimate conversation with jewellery historian Amanda Triossi revealed the intricacies of Silvestri’s remarkable career, her design philosophy, and her transformative role at Bulgari. 

From Secretary to Visionary: A Surprising Journey to Jewellery

Lucia Silvestri’s journey into the jewellery world was unplanned but transformative. Initially aspiring to a career in biology or nutrition, she joined Bulgari as a secretary during a time when the company had only five stores worldwide. However, her career trajectory shifted dramatically when she encountered a table brimming with gemstones in the Bulgari office. Captivated by their beauty, she discovered a passion that would define her life. 

Under the mentorship of the Bulgari brothers—Gianni, Paolo, and Nicola—Silvestri transitioned from a secretary to a stone buyer and eventually to Creative Director. Her rise within the company was fueled by her intuitive connection with gemstones and her ability to envision their potential in jewellery. A turning point came when she designed a necklace featuring blue and yellow sapphires sourced from Sri Lanka. This early success, achieved with Paolo Bulgari’s approval, marked her first steps as a designer and established her philosophy of letting the gemstones themselves guide the creative process. 

The Gemstone as Muse

At the core of Silvestri’s design philosophy is the belief that gemstones are more than materials; they are muses. She describes her process as “playing with gems,” arranging and rearranging them until their natural harmony emerges. Her desk, which she likens to a painter’s palette, is filled with trays of colourful stones awaiting their transformation into exquisite jewellery. 

Her meticulous attention to detail begins with the selection of stones. Colour is paramount, followed by clarity and cut. Rather than seeking perfection, Silvestri values personality, often embracing inclusions as part of a gemstone’s unique character. “I feel the stones must speak to me,” she explains, emphasising her emotional connection to each piece she creates. 

Overcoming Challenges in a Male-Dominated Industry

Challenges marked Silvestri’s early years in the male-dominated gemstone industry. Suppliers hesitated to negotiate with her, dismissing her as “just a girl” and insisting on dealing with the Bulgari brothers. Despite these obstacles, Silvestri persevered, earning respect through her determination and expertise. Today, she is celebrated for her artistic vision and her skill as a tough negotiator. She attributes her success to the mentorship of the Bulgari brothers and her ability to balance creativity with business acumen. 

Bulgari’s Signature Creations and the Cabochon Legacy

Silvestri’s influence extends across Bulgari’s high jewellery collections, where her artistry and leadership have set the standard for innovation. Notable collections include: 

– Magnifica Collection: Featuring pieces like a necklace with a 10-carat ruby, this collection highlights the versatility and artistry of high jewellery. 

– Mediterranea Collection: Inspired by the vibrant hues and textures of the Mediterranean, it blends citrines, mandarin garnets, turquoise, and onyx to evoke the warmth of the region. 

– Serpenti Collection: A reimagining of Bulgari’s iconic snake motif, this collection reflects the brand’s heritage while introducing contemporary elements.

Central to Bulgari’s aesthetic is the revival of the cabochon cut, a signature element in its designs since the mid-20th century. This smooth, rounded cut, often associated with bold colours and architectural volumes, was reintroduced by Bulgari as part of its modern reinterpretation of Italian jewellery. The cabochon’s soft contours and vivid colours capture the essence of gemstones, emphasising their natural beauty over faceted brilliance. 

A Global Quest for Excellence

Silvestri’s role involves sourcing gemstones from around the world, including India and Sri Lanka, regions known for their vibrant sapphires and emeralds. Her travels are deeply emotional, as she connects with the raw beauty of gemstones and collaborates with local artisans to achieve the ideal cut and polish. 

The cabochon, in particular, holds a special place in Bulgari’s collections. Whether in its classic dome shape or modern iterations like the sugarloaf cabochon, this cut embodies the Maison’s commitment to blending tradition with innovation. The cabochon allows for creative exploration, enabling designers to create bold, sculptural pieces that resonate with Bulgari’s architectural influences. 

Reinterpreting the Past for a Contemporary Audience

A steward of Bulgari’s legacy, Silvestri often draws inspiration from archival designs, reinterpreting them for modern audiences. For example, her modern Serpenti creations echo mid-20th-century designs while incorporating contemporary materials and techniques. Her use of cabochons is also rooted in history. From the Serpenti necklace of 1969, featuring a cabochon sapphire, to contemporary pieces that mix cabochons with hard stones like turquoise, Silvestri’s work reflects Bulgari’s dedication to honouring its heritage while embracing modernity. 

The Emotional Connection to Jewelry

For Silvestri, jewellery is deeply personal. Seeing her creations years later in auctions or exhibitions evokes emotions akin to reuniting with old friends. Her intimate involvement in every stage of a piece’s creation—from sourcing the gemstones to overseeing its craftsmanship—creates a profound connection to her work. 

GemGenève: A Hub of Creativity and Inspiration

Silvestri considers GemGenève an essential event, praising its manageable size and high-quality offerings. It is here that she discovers gems for future collections and reconnects with Bulgari’s history through vintage pieces. The event also serves as a reminder of the enduring beauty of gemstones and the artistry of jewellery design. 

Conclusion

Lucia Silvestri’s career is a testament to the transformative power of passion and perseverance. Her ability to merge artistic vision with business expertise has not only shaped Bulgari’s legacy but also elevated the art of high jewellery. Through her work, Silvestri continues to honour the natural beauty of gemstones, ensuring that Bulgari’s creations remain timeless symbols of elegance, innovation, and craftsmanship. 

Speakers:

Lucia Silvestri (Bulgari’s Jewellery Creative Director)

Amanda Triossi (Jewellery Historian, Author)