Les Grands Entretiens – A Life of Gems and Jewels at Bulgari

In the dazzling world of high jewellery, few figures shine as brightly as Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director and Stone Buyer for Bulgari. Her unparalleled expertise and a lifelong passion for gemstones have been instrumental in shaping the iconic designs that define the house of Bulgari. During the eighth edition of GemGenève, an intimate conversation with Amanda Triossi, jewellery historian and author, illuminated Silvestri’s remarkable journey, creative philosophy, and transformative influence on the world of gems and jewels.

A Serendipitous Start in Jewellery

Silvestri’s entry into the jewellery industry was entirely unplanned. Initially aspiring to a career in biology or nutrition, she began as a secretary for Bulgari during the era of the company’s founding brothers—Gianni, Paolo, and Nicola. Bulgari was a modest operation at the time, with just five stores worldwide. Her career pivot occurred when she encountered a table strewn with precious gems in the Bulgari offices. The sight ignited a passion that would become her life’s work. Under the mentorship of the Bulgari brothers, she quickly advanced, gaining a reputation for her ability to source and envision the potential of gemstones. “I fell in love with gems,” Silvestri recalls a love that has endured for 45 years.

The Birth of a Creative Vision

Silvestri’s creative journey began as a buyer, sourcing gemstones under the guidance of Paolo Bulgari. One of her earliest significant projects was a necklace crafted from sapphires she sourced in Sri Lanka. Her meticulous attention to detail included instructing suppliers to recut the stones to achieve a harmonious design. This early success marked the beginning of a design philosophy that prioritises the unique characteristics of each gem. For Silvestri, gemstones are more than materials—they are “gifts of nature” that inspire creativity and evoke energy.

Her first significant creation, a necklace composed of blue and yellow sapphires combined with pearls, was purchased by Baron Thyssen-Bornemisza for his wife. Decades later, the necklace returned to Bulgari’s heritage collection, symbolising the timeless appeal of Silvestri’s designs.

The Art of Gemstone Selection

Silvestri’s role as both a buyer and designer places her at the heart of Bulgari’s creative process. Her desk, adorned with trays of gems, is a space where she transforms raw materials into masterpieces. Comparing her work to that of a painter mixing colours, she describes her process as playful yet deeply intentional. Each piece begins with a search for harmony among the stones, which she arranges on boards with wax to visualise their potential as jewellery.

Her selection criteria emphasise colour, clarity, and cut. She values gemstones with personality and character, often embracing natural inclusions as part of a stone’s unique story. “I feel the stones must speak to me,” she says, underscoring her emotional connection to her materials.

Overcoming Challenges in a Male-Dominated Industry

Emerging as a young woman in a male-dominated industry posed significant challenges. Suppliers often refused to negotiate with her, insisting on dealing directly with the Bulgari brothers. Silvestri credits her success to the unwavering support of her mentors and her own determination. Over time, she established herself as a formidable negotiator, blending toughness with an innate understanding of gemstones’ value. “I divide my soul into two parts,” she says. “One is very creative and feminine; the other is business-oriented and tough.”

Bulgari’s Distinctive Style and Collections

Under Silvestri’s leadership, Bulgari has produced numerous iconic collections, each reflecting her dedication to innovation and tradition:

– The Magnifica Collection: Featuring masterpieces like a necklace with a 10-carat ruby, this collection exemplifies Bulgari’s philosophy that high jewellery is an art form.

– Mediterranea Collection: Inspired by the vibrant colours and textures of the Mediterranean, this collection incorporates citrines, mandarin garnets, turquoise, and onyx, demonstrating Bulgari’s commitment to blending precious and semi-precious stones.

– The Serpenti Iconic Collection: A modern reinterpretation of Bulgari’s heritage, the Serpenti line combines elegance with edginess, exemplifying the brand’s evolution while remaining true to its roots.

Sourcing and Craftsmanship: A Global Endeavor

Silvestri’s work involves extensive travel to gemstone-rich regions such as India and Sri Lanka. She collaborates with suppliers to achieve ideal cuts and colours, a process she describes as both challenging and rewarding. The creative process for each piece involves close collaboration with designers and goldsmiths, ensuring a seamless integration of vision and craftsmanship.

Crafting a single high-jewellery piece often requires over 1,800 hours of labour, reflecting Bulgari’s dedication to quality and artistry. Silvestri oversees each stage of production, from gem selection to final assembly, maintaining a close relationship with the artisans who bring her designs to life.

Balancing Past and Present

A steward of Bulgari’s legacy, Silvestri draws inspiration from the brand’s archives, reinterpreting vintage designs for contemporary audiences. For example, her reinterpretation of the 1950s Serpenti watch combines historical elements with modern aesthetics, ensuring Bulgari’s creations remain timeless.

The Emotional Connection to Jewellery

Silvestri’s passion extends beyond the creative process. Encountering her past creations in auctions or exhibitions evokes profound emotion akin to reuniting with old friends. Her role allows her to participate in every stage of a piece’s lifecycle, creating an intimate connection to her work.

GemGenève: A Source of Inspiration

For Silvestri, events like GemGenève are more than industry showcases; they are spaces for inspiration and connection. She praises the event’s manageable size, high-quality offerings, and positive atmosphere, describing it as a hub of creativity and camaraderie.

Lucia Silvestri’s remarkable career is a testament to the transformative power of passion, perseverance, and creativity. Her ability to blend artistic vision with business acumen has not only elevated Bulgari’s legacy but also set a standard of excellence in high jewellery. Through her work, she continues to honour the natural beauty of gemstones, ensuring Bulgari’s designs remain timeless symbols of elegance and innovation.

Speakers:

Lucia Silvestri (Bulgari’s Jewellery Creative Director)

Amanda Triossi (Jewellery Historian, Author)