Opals: Market & Trends

The enchanting world of opals, with its kaleidoscope of colours and diverse types, was brought vividly to life during the “Opals: Market & Trends” conference. Held with a panel of experts including Fabienne Reybaud, the moderator and journalist; Philippe Scordia, the former Dior Jewellery Director and consultant; Margaux Allaire and Brice Decque from Imagem; Juergen Schuetz, President of Emil Weis Opals; and Joel Price of Joel Price Inc., the conference delved into the intricate allure of opals and the evolving trends surrounding these gemstones. The event aimed to unravel the mystique of opals and provide insights into their market, use in jewellery, and the passionate connections they foster among gem enthusiasts and professionals alike.

Introduction to the Panel

Fabienne Reybaud opened the conference by introducing the panellists, each bringing a unique perspective on opals. Margaux Allaire expressed her deep admiration for opals, which she developed over her decade-long experience with Imagem, and emphasised the unique qualities that make opals a ‘super cool stone’. Brice Decque, also from Imagem, recounted his 20-year journey with Australian black opals, underscoring their captivating beauty and the personal stories they tell. With his roots deeply embedded in the Australian opal industry, Joel Price highlighted his extensive involvement in mining, cutting, and distributing opals. At the same time, Philippe Scordia reflected on his role at Dior and the creative adventures he embarked upon with opals. Juergen Schuetz, from Emil Weis Opals, emphasized the long-standing history and expertise of his company in the opal industry, making it one of the oldest opal-cutting companies globally.

Understanding Opal Diversity

Juergen Schuetz started the discussion by emphasising the incredible diversity within the opal family. He explained that the term “opal” encompasses a variety of stones, each with distinct characteristics. This diversity can often be a point of confusion in the market, where opals are frequently mistaken as a singular type. Schuetz took the audience on a metaphorical journey across global opal fields, shedding light on the different types of opals and their unique attributes.

The Fascination with Black Opals

The conversation naturally flowed into a discussion on black opals, a topic close to the hearts of many panellists. Brice Decque shared his initial encounter with black opals, describing them as a love-at-first-sight experience due to their striking colours and patterns. He highlighted how each stone is a unique masterpiece with various colours that evoke imagination and storytelling. Margaux Allaire and Joel Price echoed these sentiments, emphasising that black opals, particularly those from Lightning Ridge, are akin to art pieces reminiscent of paintings that stir emotions and captivate viewers.

Joel Price offered a glimpse into his childhood experiences in the boulder opal fields of Australia, where his fascination with these gems was nurtured from a young age. He described boulder opals as having a distinct beauty due to their stone-on-opal matrix and shared his awe of the stunning colours that emerge from the mines in Australia’s Outback. He also touched upon other opal varieties, including Mexican and Ethiopian, each possessing unique charm.

Exploring Mexican Opals

When the discussion turned to Mexican opals, Juergen Schuetz provided an insightful overview of their different types. He outlined four dominant varieties: water opal, fire opal, Mexican boulder opal, and the rare Mexican black opal. Schuetz explained how these types, along with Australian opals and those from other countries like Peru, form the diverse opal group that fascinates collectors and enthusiasts.

Opals in High Jewellery: A Revolutionary Trend

Philippe Scordia shared a pivotal moment in the opal world when Victoire de Castellane, the creative director at Dior, decided to incorporate opals into Dior’s high jewellery collection at Place Vendôme. This decision marked a revolutionary shift in the perception of opals within the French high jewellery scene. Traditionally considered an “old stone” associated with the Art Nouveau era, opals had fallen out of favour among French jewellers who preferred classic stones like diamonds and sapphires. However, Dior’s embrace of opals challenged this perception, leading other brands to reconsider opals’ potential in high jewellery due to their unparalleled diversity and colour variations.

Scordia explained how de Castellane used opals creatively, not merely as centrepieces but as integral elements of the overall jewellery design. This innovative approach highlighted the opal’s vivid colours, which complemented other gemstones in the piece, creating a harmonious blend of hues. The opal’s unique ability to resonate with surrounding gemstones led to a renewed appreciation of its potential in high-end jewellery.

The Complex Beauty of Opals

The panellists discussed the qualities and characteristics that define opals, emphasising their individuality and complexity. Juergen Schuetz explained that each type of opal possesses its range of qualities, from high to medium to low, and that determining the best opal often depends on personal taste and preference. He stressed that opal valuation is not straightforward, as it involves considering factors such as rarity, colour purity, lustre, and tone saturation.

Joel Price concurred, highlighting the importance of colour in opals as the primary factor influencing their value. He emphasised that opals, being colour gemstones, demand a keen focus on colour quality and saturation. Price encouraged individuals to follow their passion when selecting opals, advising them to choose stones that resonate with their preferences and evoke emotional connections.

Margaux Allaire and Brice Decque further elaborated on the opal pricing structure, linking it to the rarity of certain colours and patterns. While rarity does play a significant role, they reiterated that personal preference should be the guiding principle when selecting an opal, drawing parallels between opal selection and choosing a piece of art.

Opal Valuation: The Role of Rarity

The discussion on opal valuation delved deeper into the intricacies of determining an opal’s worth. Joel Price shed light on the valuation structure of Lightning Ridge opals, where the rarity of colours like red, orange, and gold significantly influences their price. He explained that opals follow a hierarchy of colours, with black opals being particularly rare due to their dark background, enhancing their vibrancy. Price contrasted this with traditional gemstones, where clarity often determines value, while in opals, darkness adds to their allure.

The conversation explored the concept of rarity, with Price sharing anecdotes about exceptional opals he encountered during his career. He mentioned a remarkable six-carat opal currently in his possession, known for its dazzling brightness and vivid colours. The opal’s primary colour, red, is complemented by accessory colours like Paraiba blue-green, creating a magical interplay of hues that captivated Price’s heart.

Opals and Jewelry Design: A Fusion of Creativity

The conference addressed the fascinating interplay between opals and jewellery design, with insights from jewellers and opal experts. Philippe Scordia emphasised the transformative power of opals in jewellery, where the stone’s vibrant colours inspire creative design possibilities. He noted that designers often approach opal pieces with an open mind, allowing the stone to guide the design process and result in unique, personalised creations.

Margaux Allaire observed that brands seeking to create opal jewellery often approach the design process with a blank canvas, unlike when working with more traditional gemstones. The opal’s complex nature and diverse colour palette inspire designers to explore new creative avenues. This artistic challenge, Allaire explained, fosters a sense of excitement and innovation, allowing designers to craft pieces that reflect their unique style and vision.

Brice Decque added that opals’ complexity enhances the creative process, pushing jewellers to explore new levels of artistic expression. Opals are a muse for designers, who find inspiration in their intricate patterns and vibrant hues. The result is a symbiotic relationship between the stone and the design, where each opal becomes a canvas for artistic brilliance.

The Passion for Opals

As the conference continued, the panellists shared their personal experiences with opals, recounting memorable encounters with extraordinary stones. Joel Price recounted stories from his childhood, where he was introduced to opals by his father, who shared his passion for these gems. The nostalgia of these experiences, coupled with Price’s deep appreciation for opals’ allure, highlighted his enduring connection with these stones.

Philippe Scordia shared his admiration for opals with unique patterns and colours. He often admires the finished jewellery piece that showcases the opal’s beauty alongside other gemstones. He described opals as treasures continuously captivating and surprising, with each discovery offering new insights and delights.

Juergen Schuetz fondly recalled significant opals he had encountered throughout his career, including a remarkable 618-carat red-on-black and 150-carat Mexican opal. These opals, characterised by their breathtaking colours and patterns, left a lasting impression on Schuetz and underscored the opal’s ability to inspire wonder and fascination.

Opals as a Personal Expression

The conference concluded with a reflection on the personal nature of opal selection and the emotional connection individuals develop with these gemstones. Philippe Scordia highlighted the opal’s ability to evoke personal preferences and individual tastes, allowing wearers to express themselves through their choice of opals. This element of personalisation adds a unique layer to opal jewellery, making each piece a reflection of the wearer’s identity and style.

Margaux Allaire emphasised the sense of self-expression that comes with selecting opals. Individuals are drawn to specific colours and patterns that resonate with their personal aesthetic. This connection to the stone fosters a deeper appreciation for opals and their role in jewellery design.

The conference continued delving deeper into the global fascination with opals, highlighting the distinct preferences that vary from region to region. Philippe Scordia, with his deep industry insights, illustrated how opal enthusiasts worldwide are unified in their pursuit of unique and rare stones yet diverge in their specific preferences, such as Americans’ penchant for black opals and Europeans’ admiration for Mexican varieties. This discussion emphasised that the appeal of opals transcends borders, driven by a universal emotional connection to their unique beauty.

Opals in High Jewelry: The Art of Uniqueness

Margaux Allaire discussed the resurgence of opals in high jewellery, underscoring their ideal suitability for exclusive, one-of-a-kind designs. This trend, she noted, has been revitalised by the stone’s inherent singularity—no two opals are alike, making them perfect for bespoke jewellery pieces that demand distinctiveness. This aspect of opals has captivated high-end designers and customers alike, leading to a vibrant renaissance in their use within luxurious collections.

Creative Expansion: Opals Inspiring Innovation

Reflecting on the historical context, Philippe Scordia reminisced about a time when jewellers primarily focused on traditional gemstones like rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. He highlighted how opals had broadened the horizons for creativity within the jewellery industry, offering new palettes and inspirations that challenge conventional design norms. This shift has allowed jewellers to explore more adventurous and innovative design territories.

Market Dynamics and Trends in Opal Popularity

Juergen Schuetz provided insights into the trends affecting the opal market. He noted that while there are no overarching global trends in opal colors, regional preferences and cultural influences can drive temporary spikes in demand for specific hues. He cited the recent popularity of pink opals influenced by pop culture, demonstrating how external factors can shape market trends.

The Mysterious Nature of Opals

The conversation turned towards the enigmatic qualities of opals, with Juergen Schuetz and Joel Price discussing the stone’s unpredictable nature. Joel shared anecdotes from his mining experiences, illustrating the challenging yet rewarding nature of opal mining. This unpredictability not only adds to the mystique of opals but also demands a deep commitment and extensive knowledge from those who seek to unearth their hidden beauty.

A Day in the Life of an Opal Miner

Joel Price vividly described a typical day in the opal fields, from sunrise drilling and excavation efforts to sunset reflections on the day’s yield. This hard work is crucial, as opal mining is fraught with uncertainty—today’s barren pockets may lead to tomorrow’s rich finds. Joel’s narrative provided a raw, authentic look at the dedication behind opal mining and the personal passion that drives miners like him.

Selecting and Valuing Opals: A Personal and Artistic Choice

Brice Decque and Margaux Allaire discussed the complex process of selecting opals for jewellery. They emphasised that personal and emotional responses to an opal’s colours and patterns play critical roles in their selection beyond the technical evaluation of stone quality. This personal connection to the stone often guides decisions in high jewellery, where each opal’s unique characteristics can define a piece’s essence.

Evolving Perceptions and Growing Popularity

The panel concluded with reflections on the evolving perceptions of opals within the jewellery market. Increased visibility and use by renowned brands have significantly boosted Opal’s status. Margaux Allaire noted the growth in recognition and appreciation of opals over the last decade, thanks to their prominent inclusion in major jewellery collections and visibility in international media.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the “Opals: Market & Trends” conference provided a comprehensive exploration of the world of opals, from their diverse varieties and unique qualities to their evolving role in high-end jewellery design. The panellists’ passion for opals was palpable, underscoring the gemstone’s timeless allure and ability to inspire creativity and self-expression. As the conference drew to a close, attendees were left with a renewed appreciation for opals’ captivating beauty and the stories they tell, reaffirming their place as treasured gems in jewellery and beyond.

Moderator: Fabienne Reybaud (Journalist, Author)

Philippe Scordia (Former Dior Jewellery Director, Consultant)

Margaux Allaire (Partner, Imagem)

Brice Decque (Founding Partner, Imagem)

Juergen Schuetz (President, Emil Weis Opals)

Joel Price (Joel Price Inc.)