Opals have captivated humanity for millennia with their mesmerising play of colour and enigmatic beauty. From ancient myths to modern scientific discoveries, the story of opal is rich and multifaceted. This gemstone’s journey was the focus of a roundtable discussion featuring jewellery historian Kathia Pinckernelle and gemmologist Dr Boris Chauviré, moderated by Laurent Cartier. The event delved into opal’s rich history, cultural significance, scientific intricacies, and evolving role in jewellery design.
The allure of opals dates to antiquity when they were revered and woven into the fabric of various cultures’ myths and legends. The name “opal” itself has roots in several ancient languages. Around 250 BCE, the Romans referred to the gemstone as opalus, likely derived from the Sanskrit word upala, meaning “precious stone.” The Greeks called it opallios, translating to “change in colour,” highlighting its shifting hues and captivating iridescence. These linguistic origins reflect the esteem in which opals were held across different civilisations.
Opals were surrounded by numerous myths that underscored their mystical qualities. In Arabian mythology, opals were believed to have fallen from the heavens during thunderstorms, imbued with the fiery colours of lightning. Australian Aboriginal lore tells of the creator descending to Earth on a rainbow, leaving opals where his feet touched the ground, symbolising a divine connection. In Roman times, Pliny the Elder praised opals in his Natural History, likening them to a combination of emeralds, rubies, and sapphires due to their kaleidoscopic colours. He recounted the tale of Senator Nonius, who chose exile over surrendering his prized opal ring to Mark Anthony, illustrating the gemstone’s immense value and personal significance.
During the Middle Ages, opals were considered talismans of good fortune. Because of their myriad colours, they were thought to possess the virtues of all gemstones combined. Thieves believed that wrapping an opal in a bay leaf would grant them invisibility. In Germany and Scandinavia, opals were gifted to fair-haired maidens to preserve their golden locks. A legendary opal known as “The Orphan” adorned the crown of the Holy Roman Emperor, symbolising divine right and celestial favour due to its extraordinary size and brilliance.
The opal’s journey through history is dotted with dramatic tales and shifting perceptions. Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte gifted his Empress Josephine a magnificent black opal named the “Burning of Troy,” renowned for its deep red flashes reminiscent of a blazing fire. Weighing at least 700 carats, this gemstone vanished upon Josephine’s death in 1814, reappeared briefly when acquired by the city of Vienna in 1914, and was lost again after World War II. Its mysterious history adds layers to the opal’s allure and enigma.
In 1826, Sir Walter Scott’s novel “Anne of Geierstein” cast opals in a malevolent light. The story featured an enchanted opal that brought misfortune to its wearer, leading to a significant decline in opal sales for nearly two decades. This literary work fuelled superstitions associating opals with bad luck, starkly contrasting their previous reputation as symbols of hope and purity.
Defying these superstitions, Queen Victoria embraced opals, adorning herself with them and gifting opal jewellery to her daughters upon their weddings. Her patronage helped rehabilitate the gemstone’s image, restoring its popularity in the British Empire and beyond. However, opals continued to be associated with misfortune in some circles, as illustrated by the dramatic tale involving the Spanish royal family. The Countess of Castiglione, spurned by King Alfonso XII of Spain, allegedly sent an opal ring to his bride, Queen Mercedes, who died shortly after wearing it. The opal was subsequently passed down to several family members, each meeting an untimely death until it was finally offered to the church, supposedly ending the curse.
Dr. Boris Chauviré illuminated the scientific marvels of opals, explaining that unlike many gemstones formed deep within the Earth under high temperatures and pressures, opals form at relatively low temperatures near the surface. This unique formation process contributes to their distinctive properties. Opals are composed of microscopic silica spheres arranged in a lattice but lack a crystalline structure, classifying them as mineraloids rather than actual minerals.
The vivid play of colour in precious opals results from light diffraction through the regular arrangement of these silica spheres. The size of the spheres, typically between 150 to 400 nanometres, and their uniformity are crucial for this optical phenomenon. Common opals lack this orderly structure, resulting in a more opaque appearance without the play of colour.
Opals are found globally but are notably concentrated in Australia, Ethiopia, Mexico, and, historically, Slovakia. Australia’s vast deposits have made it the largest producer, known for white and black opals from regions like Coober Pedy and Lightning Ridge. Ethiopian opals, discovered more recently, have introduced vibrant gemstones with unique properties to the market. Mexican opals are famous for their warm body colours, ranging from yellow to red, often referred to as fire opals.
Studying opal formation poses challenges due to their amorphous structure and varied geological environments. Technological limitations hindered understanding until the advent of electron microscopy in the 1960s, which allowed scientists to observe the minute silica spheres within opals. The complexity of their formation conditions, which can be both sedimentary and volcanic, adds to the intricacy of their study.
Opals require careful handling due to their sensitivity to environmental changes. A phenomenon known as “crazing” can occur when opals develop cracks from the loss of water content. Factors influencing crazing include the opal’s water content—some can contain up to 20% water—and sudden changes in temperature and humidity. Proper care involves regularly wearing opals to benefit from the skin’s moisture and oils, avoiding extreme conditions, and storing them in a moderate temperature environment to maintain hydration.
Opals have been a cherished element in jewellery design for centuries, reflecting the styles and sentiments of various eras. In ancient Rome, opals were set in gold rings and worn by nobility, symbolising status and wealth. During the Renaissance, opals were featured in intricate designs, often symbolising hope and purity. They were sometimes carved into cameos or used in pendants that touched the skin, believed to transfer the stone’s powers to the wearer.
Opals were imitated and celebrated in the 18th and 19th centuries. Due to their rarity and cost, glass imitations known as paste jewels became popular, reflecting the desire for opal-like beauty among those who could not afford the genuine gemstone. In the Victorian era, opals were incorporated into mourning jewellery, aligning with the era’s subdued elegance and introspection aesthetic.
At the turn of the 20th century, the Art Nouveau movement embraced opals for their ethereal qualities. Designers like René Lalique integrated opals into nature-inspired motifs, capitalising on the stone’s organic beauty and fluid play of colour. The Art Deco period that followed utilised opals to complement its geometric designs and bold contrasts, though they were used less frequently than in the preceding era.
In the 20th century, opals continued to enchant public figures. Andy Warhol developed an interest in opals during the 1970s, amassing a significant collection. Elizabeth Taylor, the celebrated actress, was known for her love of opals, often wearing opal jewellery that complemented her famed violet eyes. Elvis Presley also owned opal-studded rings, reflecting the gemstone’s broad appeal across different cultural spheres.
In recent decades, there has been a resurgence of interest in opals within the jewellery industry. Contemporary designers are rediscovering the gemstone’s versatility and unique aesthetic. High jewellery houses like Dior and Louis Vuitton have reintroduced opals into their collections, showcasing them in innovative settings and highlighting their natural beauty. Modern design trends explore opals’ potential, combining them with various metals and gemstones to create statement pieces that resonate with today’s audiences.
Scientific advances continue to enhance our understanding of opals. Ongoing research into their formation and stability leads to better care practices and treatment methods. While synthetic opals have been developed, they lack the unique patterns and inherent value of natural specimens, ensuring that natural opals remain highly prized.
Challenges persist, including ensuring ethical sourcing and environmental sustainability in opal mining. As high-quality opals command significant prices, responsible practices become even more crucial. The market’s appreciation for opals reflects their rarity and the craftsmanship required to cut and set them effectively.
Opals remain one of the most enchanting gemstones, bridging the gap between myth and science. Their storied past is rich with tales of love, envy, and fascination, while modern science continues to unravel the complexities of their formation and care. The resurgence of opals in contemporary jewellery attests to their timeless allure and the human penchant for beauty that transcends eras.
As we continue to explore and understand opals, both historically and scientifically, we deepen our appreciation for these natural wonders. Whether adorning ancient royalty or featured in cutting-edge designs, opals invite us to marvel at the intricate interplay between Earth’s geology and human artistry. Their journey from the depths of the Earth to the pinnacles of human creativity encapsulates a story as multifaceted and brilliant as the gemstones themselves.
Laurent Cartier (Head of Special Initiatives, SSEF)
Boris Chauviré (Gemmologist)
Kathia Pinckernelle (Jewellery Historian)
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