A poetic and eclectic exhibition to explore at GemGenève
Flames of Opal Essence
Encouraging excellence at the eighth edition
Since ancient times, opal has been seen as the most precious of gemstones, because it includes the whole spectrum of colours present in all the others.
Mathieu Dekeukelaire, Director, GemGenève
For its eighth edition, to be held from 9 to 12 May 2024 at Palexpo Hall 1, GemGenève has come up with a new and surprising exhibition honouring that most fascinating of precious stones, opal.
Known since ancient times, this gem – and its unique iridescence – is one of the greatest miracles of geology. Dubbed “the queen of jewels” by Shakespeare, opal has gone down in jewellery history as the gemstone favoured by both Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria.
With a selection of some fifty jewels and works of art, GemGenève is offering an exhibition that’s as eclectic as it’s poetic. Flames of Opal Essence sets up a dialogue between the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art: a journey of the senses taking visitors on an aesthetic initiation into all the mysteries of iridescence. An original exhibition design by Autre Idée will introduce visitors to all the properties of this mysterious gemstone, sublimated over and again by jewellers down through the ages.
Curated by GemGenève Director Mathieu Dekeukelaire, Flames of Opal Essence was brought to life with the support of the Geneva Museum of Art History MAH and the following contributors: Piaget, A.win Siu, Chris Price Opals, Emil Weis Opals, Ernst Färber, Faerber Collection, Imagem, Kreis Jewellery, Nicolas Torroni, Paul Fisher Inc., Michel Huelin, contemporary artist, Brice Decque, photographer, Laurent Kariv, Video maker, Jynx Productions Paris and Boris Chauviré of GeoGems, holder of a PhD in mineralogy and acting in his capacity as a scientist specialising in opals.
With a selection of some fifty jewels and works of art, GemGenève is offering an exhibition that’s as eclectic as it’s poetic. Flames of Opal Essence sets up a dialogue between the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art: a journey of the senses taking visitors on an aesthetic initiation into all the mysteries of iridescence.
Nadège Totah, member of the Board of Directors
A stone steeped in superstition
The Geneva Museum of Art and History’s collections include a number of antique items set with opals, some of which will be on display in the Flames of Opal Essence exhibition. One of the most remarkable pieces visitors will have the opportunity to admire is a medallion bracelet, probably made between 1800 and 1850, set with an opal that conceals a tiny secret compartment in which a fine lock of child’s hair is preserved.
Often shunned as a stone fraught with superstition and bad luck, opal was rarely used in jewellerybefore the nineteenth century.
Thomas Faerber, Co-founder, GemGenève
Opals: the gemstone of choice for twentieth-century jewellery
Exploring the interplay of light and the infinite possibilities opened up by this sensational material, the twentieth century saw the creation of pieces that were as delicate as they were astounding.
From US jeweller Raymond Yard to German artist and goldsmith Hermann Jünger via the creations of the Italian firm Vhernier, opals were constantly sublimated and fashioned throughout the twentieth century.
Opals owe their ascent to Art Nouveau jewellery, captivating the most talented jewelsmiths of the time.
René Lalique, Georges Fouquet and Louis Comfort Tiffany seized on its iridescence to create jewellery celebrating nature and femininity.
Ida Faerber, member of the Board of Directors
Opals, from jewellery to watchmaking
In the 1970s, Piaget took the daring step of introducing opal into the hallowed traditions of fine watchmaking, devising extravagant, sculptural jewelled watches. In a dazzling display of both light and the time, these uniquely styled jewel watches reveal the mystical, unfathomable beauty of each opal used. For Flames of Opal Essence, Piaget has generously agreed to display some of the most beautiful timepieces in its heritage collection: rare watches that visitors will have an opportunity to appreciate at GemGenève.
Opal and Contemporary Art
In the 1970s, Piaget took the daring step of introducing opal into the hallowed traditions of fine watchmaking, devising extravagant, sculptural jewelled watches. In a dazzling display of both light and the time, these uniquely styled jewel watches reveal the mystical, unfathomable beauty of each opal used. For Flames of Opal Essence, Piaget has generously agreed to display some of the most beautiful timepieces in its heritage collection: rare watches that visitors will have an opportunity to appreciate at GemGenève.
By recognising that opal is both artistic and contemporary, GemGenève is offering a new perspective on the gemstone, still relatively little-known to the general public.
Ronny Totah, Co-founder, GemGenève
Sublimating opals in Contemporary Art
Flames of Opal Essence is a cross-cutting exhibition designed to be a journey of the senses and an aesthetic – and above all artistic – initiation.
Mathieu Dekeukelaire, Director, GemGenève
For this eighth edition, GemGenève director Mathieu Dekeukelaire has devised a daring exhibition that blends the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art.
Drawing inspiration from the fact that observing an opal through the microscope gives the viewer the sensation of being immersed in a painting by Poliakoff, Ramade or Rollier, Mathieu Dekeukelaire has produced an unprecedented dialogue between jewels and works of art.
Flames of Opal Essence is the first ever exhibition to offer gemmology enthusiasts an opportunity to admire opal inclusions through the lens of major artworks of the twentieth century.
By including contemporary artists in the exhibition, Mathieu Dekeukelaire has developed a surprising setting in which photographs by Brice Decque sit side by side with a video installation by Swiss multidisciplinary artist Michel Huelin.
For this fifth thematic exhibition, GemGenève has thought well outside the traditional exhibition ‘box’.
